Thursday, January 10, 2008

Flash Bunny Bugger




I have mentioned the Flash Bunny Bugger in previous postings on this blog. I figured I should put in the pattern discription.




Hook: 2x or 3x long wet fly hook in various sizes. I generally tie them in sizes 4-8, but have tied them from size 18 to 3/0. In larger sizes, you don't need a long hook shank. I even go to 2x short hooks on Bunny Buggers above a size 4.


Head: Many options here - bare thread, cone (choose color, style, and material), or bead (choose color, style, and material)


Thread: 3/0 or 6/0 black. Some tyers use a particular color to indicate the sink rate that has been built into the fly.


Weight: None or lead wire/non-toxic wire in your choice of diameter/sink rate. Weight the entire length of the hook, or for more action, just use thorax weighting.


Weed Guard: One length of monofilament. Tie in at the mid-point of the hook, on top of the hook, and continue wrapping the thread back and down the bend of the hook to a point just above the hook point. Be sure to maintain the position of the mono on top of the hook. After the rest of the fly is tied, you bring the mono forward and through the eye of the hook. Use thread to secure the mono on the underisde of the hook just behind the eye of the hook. Trim close and super glue. If necessary for a clean look, use a cautery tool to very carefully melt the tag end of the mono that may be sticking out from under the thread. The heat from the tool can easily burn your thread and your fly will explode as the thread quickly unravels. You can use clear or colored mono. Mono, even colored mono, does a great job of disappearing in the water. Red is a great fish-attracting color. It may look like blood from an injured fish. Mono to match the body color looks great on a finished fly and catches fishermen when buying flies. I generally use 30#, really cheap mono. Even among cheap brands of mono, the stiffness varies between brands. Find what you need in stiffness as to brand and breaking strength and stick with it. Different conditions may call for different strengths of mono. If I am fishing bass in heavy wood cover, the 30# or 40# mono is needed. If I just want to discourage weeds from fouling the hook, 20# or 30# will get the job done without reducing hookups from less agressive fish like trout and panfish.


Tail: Zonker strip tied in long (two inches). Tail can then be trimmmed to whatever length you prefer. I find that I prefer long unless fish start striking short.


Tail Flash: Crystal flash (5 pieces) extending 1/2 inch beyond hook bend. I generally match the tail color. The fly pattern calls for either just tail flash tied in after tieing in the tail, or, after wrapping body, tie the flash fibers in at the collar of the fly and pull the free ends over the back and extending past the bend of the hook where teh fibers are tied down at the usual tie in point and then trimmed to the desired length.


Body: Chenille (solid color, variegated, or flash....fine, medium, or large) or dubbing, to match or contrast with tail color. If you use dubbing it is easier to use the sewing needle method to attach rubber legs.


Rubber Legs (or not): If used, color to match or contrast with the body. Either tie in before wrapping body using the figure-eight technique, or use Whitlock's sewing needle method after the body is tied in.


Palmering: Bunny Brush - Rabbit fur taken from the skin, placed between two wires, then twisted. This material is the very best way to palmer rabbit fur on any fly, especially here, where the rabbit fur is used in place of hackle. More movement, more fish....simple equation.




By coincidence, I just happen to be the manufacturer, wholesaler, and one of the retailers of these fantastic products....lol. Just let me know if you are interested.




Collar "Hackle": Two or three turns of Bunny, Mink, Finn Raccon, Arctic Fox, or Marabou Brush to match or contrast body color. Pull the material back with a lot of force to get it to lay down "wet fly style". If you need more of a swept back angle, wrap a few turns of thread over the materialwhile pulling it back with a lot of force.










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